How to increase your average cycling speed
Average speed matters to every cyclist—from beginners to amateur racers and even pros. It’s a rewarding metric that reflects both the joy of riding fast and your performance level. This page gives you concrete tips to gain km/h—whether your goal is steady progress or impressing your riding buddies.
Key idea: there are two types of gains — immediate gains you can grab on your next ride, and long-term gains built with optimized equipment and better pacing.
1. What drives average speed
Riding fast depends on several factors:
– aerodynamics (the main lever above ~30 km/h),
– tire rolling resistance,
– weight (especially uphill),
– route choice,
– pacing and wind management.
2. Tires: a key part of efficiency
Rolling resistance is the same solo or in a bunch. In a group, aero drag drops, so rolling matters proportionally more. As a rule of thumb, a good tire costs ~8 W, but you can quickly reach ≈12 W per tire if it’s worn, poorly inflated, or the wrong model. Dropping to 6–7 W is possible, but often at the expense of robustness (higher puncture risk).
To compare models and find the right compromise, check the benchmark site Bicycle Rolling Resistance.
3. Aerodynamics: the #1 lever
At 32 km/h, two riders of similar build can show a 40 W difference purely from position. Optimizing aero is crucial. Focus on:
– a more compact position (appropriate crank length, well-set bar/stem),
– a snug jersey and bibs,
– a modern wind-tunnel-tested helmet,
– validated aero accessories (e.g., overshoes).
For deeper (very technical) reading: Cycles & Forme’s aero overview.
How to set your handlebar (and choose dimensions)
Cockpit setup is, in our view, the most critical point for aero gains on a modern road bike. A bike fit will deliver comfort and geometry for your body; however, for sportive riders, pure aero is sometimes underweighted (aiming for 6 h comfort vs. a few dozen watts saved). You need to pick the right comfort ↔ aero trade-off.
Practical levers: adjust bar height (spacers / steerer cut if validated), stem length, and bar width. Pros sometimes ride smaller frames with longer stems and very low bars. Without going extreme, note that—same level and geometry—tests show ~2–5 W saved at 45 km/h in favor of the smaller size. If you are 50/50 between two sizes, lean toward the smaller.
On bar width: 42 cm used to be standard, but since ~2018 the pro peloton has moved narrower. A realistic, effective target is 38 cm (allow a few thousand km to adapt). Pair with well-cut aero textiles and quality overshoes (e.g., Spatzwear Windsock 2 / FASTA-Lite for winter).
Velo-Perso’s take: on solo rides between 30 and 35 km/h, the gains from oversized pulley cages, Rotor cranksets (e.g., 165 mm), or other aero add-ons are marginal compared with route choice, position, and fitness. They shine at higher speeds (TT, non-draft tri) or when every second counts.
4. Pick the right route
A fast route is first a no-brakes route: wide, priority roads, low traffic, pedaling almost nonstop.
- Flat areas: ride out into headwind in sheltered zones (forest), come back on exposed roads with tailwind.
- Rolling/mid-mountains: climb into headwind in a narrow valley, return along the ridges with tailwind.
- High mountains: watch out for thermal winds building through the day; pick the right hours. Some (especially cross-border) passes can be brutal… or help you record big averages if you place exposed sections with a tailwind.
- Rolling countryside: define a “booster” section to hold 20 minutes at FTP with no stops or crossings—ideally slightly downhill and tailwind-exposed. Beyond raw speed, this teaches you to ride fast—useful in bunch rides and cyclosportives.
Velo-Perso.com onboard camera — Return on a straight, fast-rolling road with low traffic, and a tailwind.
- Context: slight uphill (false flat), favorable conditions to hold speed.
- Observed pace: ~35 km/h for ~250 W (order of magnitude).
- Why a power meter helps: smooth your effort, press harder when it makes sense, avoid surges.
- Practical tip: steady cadence (≈85–95 rpm), eyes up, anticipate small gradients to keep momentum.
5. Pacing on the day
To target a higher average speed:
- Avoid long stretches at low speed.
- Don’t go into the red before a fast section.
- Ride around your FTP on the fast parts.
- Recover slightly on very fast sections so you can re-accelerate at the right moment.
- Crest short climbs hard to keep speed rolling.
Use Strava for benchmarking: create two standard loops (North/South) you repeat through the year depending on wind. Example: “Loop 1: 2 h at 30 km/h” — ride it 5 times in the year at the same target speed and record the watts required each time. That way you track your efficiency (W ↔ km/h) with comparable gear and conditions.
To structure your training:
6. Average speed vs. true level
Riding fast doesn’t always equal a higher level. Your power-duration curve and VO2max are far more reliable indicators. That said, chasing a high average is an excellent drill in pacing and big-gear work.
Conclusion
To lift your average speed, focus on three pillars: tires, aero, and route + pacing. Gains add up—and the sum of small details makes a big difference.
Summary: what really matters on a 2–3 h solo ride
- Route choice: ★★★★★
- Bike fit & position: ★★★★★
- Good tires & pressure: ★★★★☆
- Weather conditions: ★★★★☆
- Fitness: ★★★★☆
- Pacing: ★★★☆☆
- Aero clothing (well-cut jersey/bibs, overshoes): ★★★☆☆
- Clean, well-lubed drivetrain: ★★☆☆☆
- Crankset (right gearing, stiffness, power-meter option): ★★☆☆☆ (★★★☆☆ with power meter)
- Ceramic BB/wheel bearings, ceramic pulleys & OSPW cages: ★☆☆☆☆
Why does Velo-Perso offer ceramic BBs, bearings, cages and pulleys if the solo gain is only one star?
Because they become highly effective once the prerequisites are in place (position, route, fitness). A poor aero setup can cost −50 W — nothing will offset that.
But once aero is optimized, low-friction parts really show their value: in the mountains (lower speeds), in time trials (every second counts), and for long-term smoothness/durability.
See: CyclingCeramic OSPW cages · Rotor Aldhu cranksets · Aero chainrings
Strava example: 59 km route optimized for a north-easterly wind
This route is designed to minimize headwind cost and maximize tailwind sections. It consists of four complementary segments for a total of 59 km.
| Segment | Distance | Wind | Road type / Exposure | Target intensity | Target speed | Goal |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A — Outbound 1 | 22 km | Headwind (NE) | Small forest roads, strong shelter | Zone 2 (endurance) | ≈ 28 km/h | Limit power drift into the wind |
| B — Outbound 2 | 8 km | Headwind (NE) | Fast main road, enclosed valley (low exposure) | Stable Z2 | ≈ 28–30 km/h | Preserve freshness before the return |
| C — Return 1 | 20 km | Tailwind (NE) | Fairly fast open road, exposed | Z2 → Z3 if comfortable | ≈ 35–38 km/h | Fully exploit wind assistance |
| D — Return 2 | 9 km | Tailwind (NE) | Busy main road, valley (favorable) | Controlled Z2–Z3 | ≈ 35–38 km/h | Hold speed, extra safety awareness |
| Total | 59 km | Pacing plan: Z2 at ~28 km/h into headwind · 35–38 km/h with tailwind (depending on fitness & surface) | ||||
Practical tips
- Timing: in rolling/high-mountain areas, start early to avoid thermal winds.
- Safety: segment D is fast but busy — keep right, use a rear light, be cautious at access points.
- Efficiency tracking: log your watts on segments A+B (headwind) to monitor Z2 at fixed speed.
- Traffic alternative: if D is too busy, plan a quieter parallel variant even if slightly slower.
FAQ — Average cycling speed
Quick questions to recap the essentials. Open each item for the answer.